How to Train Your Pet to Use a Pet Door
  • By Pet-Tek Australia
  • September 2, 2026
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How to Train Your Pet to Use a Pet Door

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How to Train Your Pet to Use a Pet Door

Most animals are using a new door confidently within a week, and the method to train your pet to use a pet door is the same for dogs and cats: prop the flap fully open first, reward every crossing, then lower the flap in stages over several days. Before you start any of it, rule out the physical causes — roughly half the "won't use it" cases we hear about turn out to be a height or sizing problem, not a training one.

First, check it isn't the door

Work through these before you spend a week training against a problem no amount of treats will fix.

CheckWhat good looks likeIf it's wrong
Flap height off the floorBottom of the flap level with, or just below, the bottom of the chestToo high and they have to climb; too low and they crouch. Both cause refusal.
Flap sizeWithin the published range for that model — each door lists the animal it suitsAn animal that has to squeeze stops trying
What's on the other sideLevel, dry, non-slip landingA drop, a step, or slippery tiles will stop a cautious animal cold
The lock settingFour-way dial set to open both ways during trainingAn in-only setting during training teaches them the door doesn't work

If the height is wrong, fix that first. It is by far the most common cause, and no amount of patience compensates for it. Our sizing guide covers how to measure properly and where the flap should sit.

The seven-day plan

Days 1–2 · Flap fully open

Tape or prop the flap right up so the opening is completely clear. Let your pet see straight through it. Don't push, don't lift them through, don't make it a training session yet — leave it open and let them investigate on their own terms.

Once they're walking through freely in both directions, reward every single crossing. Treats for dogs; for cats, a favourite toy or the sound of the food container often works better than food itself.

Days 3–4 · Half open

Lower the flap so it hangs about halfway down. Your pet now has to touch it, but can still see straight through. This is the step where most hesitation appears, and the fix is patience rather than pressure.

Sit on the far side and call them through. Hold the flap yourself if it helps, so they feel it move without it dropping shut on them. Two or three short sessions a day beats one long one.

Days 5–6 · Nearly closed

Let the flap hang almost fully down. Your pet has to push, but there's still a gap at the bottom letting light and scent through. Keep rewarding both directions — coming in matters as much as going out, and animals often learn one direction first.

Day 7 · Fully closed

Release the flap completely. Most pets carry straight on. If yours hesitates, drop back to the half-open stage for another day or two. Going backwards a step costs nothing; forcing it costs weeks.

Cats often skip most of this. A confident cat will frequently be using a fully closed flap by day two or three. Older cats and rescues generally need the full week, sometimes two. Neither is a problem — just don't compare one cat to another.

Species-specific notes

Dogs

  • Use a cue word from day one — "out", "through", "outside". It becomes genuinely useful later.
  • Never push a dog through. One bad experience with the flap landing on their back can set you back a fortnight.
  • Puppies learn fastest but tire quickly. Keep sessions to three or four minutes.
  • Some dogs learn to push with their nose, others with a shoulder. Either is fine — let them find their own method.
  • If your dog already knows a "touch" cue, transfer it to the flap. It shortcuts days 3–4 considerably.

Cats

  • Never lift a cat through. It creates a strong negative association almost instantly.
  • Scent matters more than food. Rubbing a familiar blanket on both sides of the flap helps.
  • Practise when the cat is already motivated — before a meal, or when they clearly want to be outside.
  • A cat that has used a flap before usually needs one day, not seven.
  • If the door is set into glass, cats often take to it faster than a timber door — they can see through it before they commit.

When it isn't going well

SymptomLikely causeWhat to do
Goes out but won't come back inOnly trained one direction, or something outside is off-puttingTrain inward specifically. Check the outside landing surface and lighting.
Startled by the flap swinging backWent through too fast at a late stageGo back to half-open for two days and rebuild slowly
Uses it sometimes, then stopsOften the lock dial got changed, or something outside hasCheck the dial position first. Then look for a new dog next door, a moved bin, a possum.
Was fine, now refuses entirelySomething frightened them at the doorProp it open again for a few days and rebuild from day one
Older pet has stopped using itJoint stiffness — the step up now hurtsAdd a low step or ramp on both sides, or lower the door
Flap catches or dragsDebris in the frame, or a damaged flapClear the channel with a soft brush. On the maxi range the base is deliberately unsealed for drainage — a cotton bud clears it in place, with no need to take the door apart. If the flap itself is damaged, a replacement flap clips in.

Things that make it harder

  • Punishing hesitation. Fear and doors don't mix. Reward attempts, ignore refusals.
  • Training in bad weather. Nothing about a windy, wet first day helps.
  • Multiple people using different cues. Agree one word.
  • Feeding on the wrong side. Putting the bowl outside to lure them through works once, then teaches them the food lives outside.
  • Rushing the stages. Two extra days at half-open costs nothing. A frightened pet costs weeks.

If you're still choosing a door

Training is much easier when the door is right in the first place. Get the model and the fitting height sorted before installation and most of this article becomes unnecessary — the Find Your Fit tool matches your animal and your doorway in about a minute.

If it's going into glass, what that costs is worth reading first, and toughened or double-glazed panels are a job of their own. For a slider, there are three routes. And if a neighbourhood cat starts using the door once your own pet has mastered it, that has its own fix.

To have the door fitted, our installer directory lists independent specialists by region.

Browse dog doorsBrowse cat doors

Common questions

How long does it take to train a dog to use a dog door?

Most dogs are confident within a week using a staged approach — flap propped open, then lowered gradually. Puppies and food-motivated dogs are often quicker; anxious or older dogs may need two to three weeks.

How do I teach a cat to use a cat flap?

Prop the flap fully open for a couple of days, reward every crossing, then lower it in stages. Never lift the cat through — it creates a lasting negative association.

Why won't my dog use the pet door?

Most often the installation height is wrong, the flap is too small for them, or something on the other side is putting them off. Check all three before assuming it's a training problem.

Can you train an older dog or cat?

Yes, it just takes longer. Watch for joint stiffness — if the step up is uncomfortable, add a low step on both sides or lower the door.

Should I use treats?

For dogs, yes. For cats, scent, a favourite toy or the sound of the food container usually works better than treats.

My pet used it and now refuses. What happened?

Check the four-way lock dial first — it's the most common cause by a wide margin. Otherwise something at the door has changed or startled them; prop it open for a few days and rebuild.

Written by the Pet-Tek Australia team. Advice drawn from installer and owner feedback since 1999 across the Catwalk® and Dogwalk® ranges. If your pet is refusing a correctly sized door after three weeks, send us photos of the installation — it's usually height.
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